96266 - Phytocosmetic Products

Learning outcomes

At the end of the course the student has the knowledge related to the main technological approaches for the formulation and the production of phytocosmetic formulations and knows their chemical, technological and functional properties. The student knows the monophasic, biphasic and non conventional cosmetic products through laboratory classes. The student also knows the legilastion on cosmetics.

Course contents

Front teaching (4 cfu, 32 hours)

History of cosmetics. Phytocosmetics. Zoocosmetics. Mineral cosmetics. Cosmeceutical. Natural, biological and sustainable cosmetics.

Definition of cosmetics and their functions. Legislative sources and cosmetic regulation. Regulation (EC) 1223/2009.

Structure and functions of the skin. Anatomy and physiology of the skin. Percutaneous absorption.

Ingredients of cosmetic formulations. International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. Oily materials, surface active agents, humectants, thickening agents, antioxidants, sequestring agents, antimicrobial agents, color materials, fragrances.

Cosmetic formulations: classification and formulation techniques. Aqueous solutions, alcoholic and hydro-alcoholic solutions, siliconic-alcoholic solutions, oil solutions; surfactants’ preparations; aqueous, glyceric and alcoholic gels; hydro and hydro-glyceric pastes; emulsions, emulsions O/W, W/O, W/S; multiple systems, microemulsions. Solid and consistent lipid forms: lipogels, pastes, sticks and butters. Powder preparations. Controls of the finished products. Non conventional systems: patches, micro/nanoparticles, phytosomes, inclusion complexes, liquid crystals.

Functional cosmetics. Skin care cosmetics and body care cosmetics: moisturizers and humectants, emollients, cleasing ingredients, antiaging, suncare cosmetics, deodorants and antiperspirants, vasoactives. Hair care cosmetics: anti-dandruff cosmetics, hair cleasing cosmetics, hair grooming cosmetics, hair colorant and hair bleach. Make up products. Cosmetic products for children.

Phytocosmetic products. Properties and uses of plants and herbal extracts in cosmetic preparations. 

Laboratory practice (2 cfu, 24 hours)

Preparation of solutions, gels, pastes, emulsions, lipid systems, solid systems, patches, phytosomes. Quality controls of cosmetic products: measurement of pH and stability on centrifugation. Instrumental techniques for the evaluation of the skin properties and the effectiveness of cosmetics: determination of skin hydration using the corneometer.

Readings/Bibliography

Slides from lessons (http://campus.unibo.it/ ).

G. D'AGOSTINIS, E. MIGNINI, Manuale del cosmetologo, Ed. Tecniche Nuove, Milano, 2014.

A. BOVERO, Dermocosmetologia, Ed. Tecniche Nuove, Milano, 2011.

G. PROSERPIO, Chimica e tecnica cosmetica 2000, Ed. Sinergia, Milano, 1999.

G. PROSERPIO, B. AMBRECK, M. CEOLONI, Prontuario del cosmetologo, Ed. Tecniche Nuove, Milano, 2001.

G. PENAZZI. Come sono fatti i cosmetici. Guida pratica alla lettura dell'INCI. EDRA LSWR, Milano, 2015.

U. BORELLINI. Manuale di cosmetologia. Dalla dermocosmesi funzionale alla cosmeceutica. EDRA S.p.A, Milano, 2018.

F. BETTIOL, M. CECCHI. Manuale delle preparazioni cosmetiche e dermatologiche. II Edizione. Tecniche Nuove, Milano, 2018.

Slides presented in class are not a substitute for the reference texts

Teaching methods

Theorical lessons and laboratory practice.

As concerns the teaching methods of this course unit, all students must attend Module 1, 2 [https://www.unibo.it/en/services-and-opportunities/health-and-assistance/health-and-safety/online-course-on-health-and-safety-in-study-and-internship-areas] online, while Module 3 on health and safety is to be attended in class. Information about Module 3 attendance schedule is available on the website of your degree programme

Assessment methods

Learning will be assessed by a final oral examination on the course content. To take the exam, registration is required through Almaesami, in compliance with the deadlines provided for.

Teaching tools

The theoretical lessons will be held by using slides, videoprojector and PC. The practical activities will be carried out in laboratories equipped with galenic instrumentation.

Office hours

See the website of Angela Abruzzo