94388 - BIOMATERIALS, PIGMENTS AND SUNSCREENS IN COSMETICS

Conoscenze e abilità da conseguire

Grazie alla frequenza e al superamento dell'esame finale del corso “Biomaterials, pigments and sunscreens in cosmetic formulations”, lo studente - ha acquisito conoscenze sulla struttura, proprietà e applicazione delle principali macromolecole biocompatibili utilizzate in cosmetica; - ha acquisito conoscenza degli elementi di base della stabilità cinetica e termodinamica di sistemi colloidali come dispersioni ed emulsioni; - ha acquisito conoscenza dei principali processi fotochimici e fotofisici e dei processi ottici alla base della produzione e percezione del colore; - ha acquisito conoscenza dei processi ossidativi dei cosmetici sotto radiazione solare e delle principali strategie di protezione della pelle; - è in grado di comprendere il ruolo dei tensioattivi e degli additivi nelle formulazioni cosmetiche; - è in grado di comprendere le proprietà dei coloranti e dei pigmenti e valutare i migliori approcci per la loro dispersione; - è in grado di selezionare strategie ottimali per la fotoprotezione della pelle e lo sviluppo di cosmetici fotosicuri; - è in grado di applicare le conoscenze acquisite a problemi reali e a nuove problematiche relative ai biomateriali, ai pigmenti e ai filtri solari nelle formulazioni cosmetiche.

Contenuti

MODULE 1 (teacher Marco Montalti)

Part 1A. Color, light, pigments and dyes

Definition and classification of cosmetics

The role of light and colors in cosmetics

Color cosmetics. Examples of make-up products: properties of Lipstiks and Facial fundations.

Properties of light and colored materials

Human vision and color properties.

Light matter-interaction: reflectance, refraction, interference, absorption and emission.

Structural color: pearls and lusters pigments

Dyes and pigments in cosmetics

Organic and inorganic pigments. White black and colored pigments

Part 1B. Photophysics and photochemistry

Photophysical and photochemical properties of molecular dyes..

Ground and excited electronic states

Photophysical and photochemical processes. Radiative and non-radiative processes. Photoreactions

Photochemistry in cosmetics: Photostability, photodegradation and phototoxicity

PART 2. Emulsions and dispersions

Interface energy. Effect on emulsion stability.

Surfactants, chemical composition and effect on interface energy

Self-assembly of surfactant. Micelles and their properties

Light scattering based techniques for investigating micellar systems.

Other forms of surfactant super-structures: liquid crystals, properties and applications.

Kinetic and thermodynamic stabilization of emulsions

Microemulsions definition and properties

Nanoemulsions and their properties

General properties of emulsions and emulsifiers

Suspensions. Definition and methods for their production and stabilization

Rheology. Basic principles and applications

Part 3. Photoprotection

-Biological effects of visible and Infrared Radiation

-Photoprotection and Photoageing

-Sunscreen Product exposure

-Nanotechnologies for the photoprotection

MODULE 2 (Teacher: Simona Fermani)

Definition, classification, general properties and application fields of biomaterials.

Mechanical properties and main mechanical tests in biomaterials applications.

Structure and properties of the main classes of biopolymers used in cosmetics:

Polysaccharides: homopolysaccarides (cellulose, chitin and chitosan, starch, glycogen) heteropolysaccarides (alginic acid or alginate, carrageenans) and glycosamminoglycans (hyaluronic acid or hyaluronate, keratan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate/dermatan sulfate, heparin/heparan sulfate).

Amino acids, globular and fibrous proteins (collagen, elastin, keratin, silk fibroin)

Proteoglycans

Polymeric biomaterials:

Molecular, structural and thermal properties of polymers.

Main classes of polymeric biomaterials (synthetic polyamides, polyesters, polyolefins, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, natural and synthetic gum).

Hydrogels: classification, properties and preparation.

Ceramic biomaterials: structure and properties of hydroxyapatite.

Interaction phenomena between the biomaterial surface and the biological environment.

Testi/Bibliografia

Indications about reference texts (all available in the main libraries) will be done during the course. Papers and review articles will be also provided.

For Module 1, Part 3

-Steven Q. Wang, Henry W. Lim, Principles and Practice of Photoprotection, Adis Ed., Springer International Publishing Switzerland 2016. E-Book available for UNIBO users

For Module 2

J. B. Park, R. S. Lakes. “Biomaterials: an Introduction”, 2nd edition Plenum Press, New York. ISBN 10: 1441922814 ISBN 13: 9781441922816

R. Barbucci, “Integrated Biomaterials Science”, Kluver Academic/plenum Publishers, New York, 2002. ISBN 978-0-306-47583-2

Metodi didattici

Classroom lectures will be given

Modalità di verifica e valutazione dell'apprendimento

Written and oral exams will evaluate the students ability on theoretical and practical knowledge in the course subject.

Strumenti a supporto della didattica

Power point presentations used during the lessons and any research material will be provided to the students in electronic format via Internet.

Orario di ricevimento

Consulta il sito web di Marco Montalti

Consulta il sito web di Simona Fermani