29549 - ORGANIZZAZIONE DELLE AZIENDE DI MODA (1) (LM)

Conoscenze e abilità da conseguire

Lo studente al termine del corso acquisisce contenuti e strumenti fondamentali per l'analisi dell'organizzazione delle imprese della moda, attraverso i fondamentali riferimenti teorici e lo studio di casi emblematici.

Contenuti

Il corso si compone di una parte teorica generale, volta a formare la base di conoscenze di teoria dell'organizzazione, necessarie all'analisi dei contesti organizzati e di una parte specifica, volta ad approfondire le tendenze più recenti degli studi organizzativi e i  temi rilevanti per l'analisi delle dinamiche organizzative nel sistema della moda e delle industrie culturali. Particolare attenzione verrà dedicata alla parte metodologica per fornire ai discenti un metodo di indagine adeguato all'analisi e dell'interazione  e del coordinamento dei  processi creativi e dell'innovazione nella moda e nelle industrie ad essa collegate.

Testi/Bibliografia

Con gli studenti frequentanti, ovvero con  coloro che frequenteranno le lezioni e parteciperanno alla prova scritta, verrà concordata una lista di letture all'interno della bibliografia generale del corso.

Per gli studenti non frequentanti è obbligatoria la lettura e la buona comprensione dei seguenti testi:

_Mary Jo HATCH, Teoria dell'organizzazione, Bologna, Il Mulino, 2009.

_Paul DI MAGGIO, Organizzare la cultura, Bologna, Il Mulino, 2009.

_Yuniya KAWAMURA, La moda, Bologna, Il Mulino, 2009.

 Per gli studenti frequentanti lai programma dell'esame, verrà concordato a lezione testo per testo, a partire dalla bibliografia riportata qui sotto, che completa quella per gli studenti non frequentanti.

Bibliografia generale

Ainamo, A. e Djelic, M-L. [1999], The Coevolution of New Organizational Forms in the Fashion Industry: A Historical and Comparative Study of France, Italy and the United States , in “Organization Science”, 2, September-October, pp. 622-637.

Aspers, P. [2006], Designing for the Other. Using Knowledge to Upgrade Manufacturing in the Garment Industry, MPIfg Discussion Paper 06/9 Max Planck Institut für Gesellschaftsforschung.

Aspers, P. e Skov, L. [2006], Encounters in the Global Fashion Business: Afterword, in “Current Sociology”, n° 54, pp. 802-813.

Barber, B. e Lobel, L. [1952], “Fashion” in Women's clothes and in the American Social System, in “Social Forces”, vol. 31, n°2, pp. 124-131.

Blumer, H.  [1969], Fashion: from Class Differentiation to Collective Selection, The Sociological Quarterly, 10, 3, pp. 275-291.

Bourdieu, P. [1971] Le marché des biens symboliques, L'Année sociologique, 22, pp. 49-126, Eng. Transl. [1985], The market of symbolic goods, Poetics, vol. 14, n°1-2, pp.13-44.  

-[1977], La production de la croyance. Contribution à une économie des biens symboliques, Actes de la recherche en sciences sociales, 13, février, pp. 3-43. English Translation: The production of belief: contribution to an Economy of Symbolic Goods, Media, Culture and Society, 2/3, pp.261-293.

Bourdieu, P. e Delsault, Y. [1975], Le couturier et sa griffe, contribution à une théorie de la magie, in “Actes de la recherche en sciences sociales”, 1, janvier, pp. 7-36.

Bourriaud, N. [2003], Postproduction, Paris, Les presses du réel.

Bovone, L. e Crane, D. [2006], Approaches to material culture: the Sociology of Fashion and clothing, in “Poetics”, vol. 34, n°6, (Dec), pp. 319-333.

Brusco, S. [1982], The Emilian model: productive decentralization and social integration, in “Cambridge journal of Economics”, 6, pp.167 – 184.

Cohen, M. D., March J.G, Olsen, J. P. [1972],  A Garbage Can Model of Organizational Choice, Administrative Science Quarterly, Vol. 17, No. 1, pp. 1-25.

Crane, D. [1993], Fashion Design as an Occupation: a cross national approach, Current Research on Occupations and Professions, vol. 8, p. 55-73.

-[1997], Globalization, organizational size and innovation in the French luxury fashion industry : production of culture theory revisited, in “Poetics”, 24,  pp. 393-414.

-[1999], Diffusion models and Fashion: A Reassessment, in “The Annals of The Academy of Political and Social Science”,566, November, pp.13–24.

-[2000], Fashion and its social agendas. Class, Gender and identity in Clothing, Chicago, The University of Chicago Press, trad. It.Questioni di moda. Classe, genere e identità nell'abbigliamento, a cura di Emanuela Mora, Milano, Franco Angeli, 2004.

Crozier, M. and Thoenig, J.C. [1976], The regulation of complex organized systems, ASQ, vol. 21, n°4, pp. 547-570.

  Davis, G.F. [2005], Firms and Environments, in Smelser, N.J. e Swedberg, R., 2005, pp. 478-502.

Di Maggio, P.J. e Powell, W.W. [1983], The Iron cage revisited: Institutional Isomorphism and Collective rationality in Organizational Fields, American Sociological Review, vol. 48, n° 2, pp. 147–160.

Entwistle, J. [2002], The aesthetic economy: The production of value in the field of fashion modelling, Journal of Consumer Culture, vol. 2, n°3, pp. 317-340.

-[2006], The Cultural Economy of Fashion Buying, Current Sociology, 54, pp. 704-724.

Entwistle, J. e Rocamora, A. [2006], The Field of Fashion Materialized: a Study of London Fashion Week, in “Sociology”, vol. 40, n° 4, pp. 735-751.

Fallers, L. [1954], A Note on the “Trickle effect”, in “The Public Opinion Quarterly”, vol. 18, n°3, autumn, pp. 314-321.

Fayol, H [1918],  Administration Industrielle et générale, Paris, Dunod.

Fine, G.A. [1996], Kitchens. The culture of restaurant at work, Berkeley and Los Angeles, University of California press.

- [1996], Justifying work: Occupationas rhetoric's as Resources in Resuatrant Kitchens, ASQ, vol. 41, n°1, pp. 90-115.

Foote Whyte, W. [1949], The Social Structure of the Restaurant, The American Journal of Sociology, Vol. 54, No. 4, pp. 302-310.

Gereffi, G., [1999], International Trade and industrial Upgrading in the Apparel Commodity Chain, in “Journal of International Economics, 48, pp. 37-70.

- [2002], Outsourcing and Changing Patterns of International Competition in the Apparel Commodity Chain, paper presenteato alla conferenza “Responding to Globalization: Societies, Groups and Individuals”, Boulder, Colorado, April 4-7.

Gereffi, G. e Memedovic, O. [2003], The Global Apparel Value Chain: what Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries, Sectoral Studies Series, UNIDO, Vienna.

Golfetto, F., Rinallo, D. [2006], Representing markets: the shaping of fashion trends by French and Italian fabric companies, Industrial marketing management, 35, pp- 856-869.

Katz, E. e Lazarsfeld, P.F. [1955], Personal influence : the part played by people in the flow of mass-communications, Glencoe, The Free Press.

Herriott, S.R.. Levinthal, D.A. e March, J.G. [1985], Learning from Experience in Organizations, American Economic Review, 75, 298-302.

Hirsch, P.M. [1972], Processing Fads and Fashions: An Organization Set Analysis of  Cultural Industry Systems, American Journal of Sociology, 77, January, pp. 639–659.

Horowitz, T. [1976], The man in the middle. The study of the role of the fashion designer in the process of formation and diffusion of fashion in Great Britain, The Journal of the Market Research Society

Hunter, A.N. [1990], Quick response in apparel manufacturing, Manchester, The Textile Institute.

Katz, E. e Lazarsfeld, P.F. [1955], Personal influence : the part played by people in the flow of mass-communications, Glencoe, The Free Press (The Transaction Edition, 2006).

Kawamura, Y. [2004], The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion.  Oxford, New York: Berg.

-[2005], Fashionology, Oxford, New York, Berg.

Lampel J., Lant, T., Shamsie, J. [2000],Balancing Act: Learning from Organizing Practices in Cultural Industries, Organization Science, vol.11, n°3, Special Issue: Cultural Industries: Learning from evolving organizational practices, p. 263-269.

Lazerson, M. [1995], A New Phoenix? Modern Putting Out in the Modena Knitwear Industry, Administrative Science Quarterly, vol.40, n°1 (March), pp. 34–59.

Lewin, A.Y., Long C.P.,  Carrol, C.P. [1999], The Coevolution of new Organizational Forms, in “Organization science”, vol. 10, n°5, sep.-oct., pp.535–550.

March, J.G. [1991], Exploration and Exploitation in Organizational Learning, Organization Science, vol. 2, n°1,pp. 71-87.

-[1995], The Future, Disposable Organizations and the Rigidities of Imagination, Organization , 2: 427-440,

March, J. G., and Weil, T. [2003], On Leadership, Oxford, Blackwell.

Merton, R. K. [1949], Social Theory and Social Structure: toward the Codification of Theory and Research, Glencoe, The Free Press.

Meyer, J.W. e Rowan, B. [1977], Institutionalized Organizations: Formal Structure as Myth and Ceremony, in “The American Journal of Sociology”, vol. 83, n°2, pp. 340–363.

Meyersohn, R. e Katz, E. [1957], Notes on a natural History of Fads, “The American Journal of Sociology”, vol. 62, n°6, pp. 594-601.

Mills, C. W. [1958], The man in the middle: the designer, in “Industrial Design”, November 1958, pp. 72-76.

Mora, E., [2006], Collective production of creativity in the Italian fashion system, in “Poetics”, 34, pp. 334-353.

Nystrom, P.H. [1928], Economics of Fashion, New York, the Ronald Press Company.

- [1932], Fashion Merchandising, New York, the Ronald Press Company.

Odorici, V. e Corrado, R. [2004], Between Supply and Demand: Intermediaries, Social Networks and the construction of Quality in the Italian Wine Industry, Journal of management and Governance, 8, pp.149-171.

Ouchi, W. G. [1979], A conceptual Framework for the Design of Organizational Control Mechanism, in “Management sciences”, 25, pp. 833-848.

Ouchi, W.G. [1980], Markets, Bureaucracies and Clans, Administrative Science Quarterly, vol. 25, pp.129-141.

Parkhurst Ferguson, P. [1998], A Cultural Field in the Making: gastronomy in 19th-Century France, The American Journal of Sociology, vol. 104, n°3, pp. 597-641.

- [2004], Accounting for Taste. The triumph of French Cuisine, Chicago and London, The University of Chicago Press.

Perrow, C. [1967], A framework for comparative organizational analysis, American Sociological Review, 32, 2, p. 194-208.

Peterson, R. A., Berger, D.G. [1975], Cycles in symbol production: The case of popular music, American Sociological Review, vol. 40, n° 2, p. 97-106.

Powell, W.W. [1990], Neither Market, not hierarchy: Network Forms of Organization, in “Research in Organizational Behavior”, vol. 12, pp. 295–336.

Rao, H., Monin, P. and Durand, R. [2003], Institutional change in Toque Ville: nouvelle Cuisine as an Identity Movement in French Gastronomy, The American Journal of Sociology, vol. 108, n°4, pp. 795-843.

- [2005], Border Crossing: Bricolage and the Erosion of categorical Boundaries in French Gastronomy, American Sociological Review, vol. 70, pp. 968-991.

Richardson, J. [1996], Vertical Integration and rapid response in Fashion Apparel, in “Organization Science”, vol. 7, n°4, July-August, pp. 400-412.

Rosenau, J.A. e Wilson, D.L. [2006], Apparel Merchandising. The line Starts here. Second edition, New York, Fairchild Publications.

Skov. L. [2002], Hong Kong Fashion Designers as cultural intermediaries: out of global garment production, Cultural Studies,vol. 16, n°4, pp. 553-569.

-[2006], The Role of Trade Fairs in the Global Fashion Business, in “Current Sociology”, n°54, pp. 764-783.

Smelser, N.J. e Swedberg, R. [2005], The Handbook of Economic Sociology (Second Edition), Russel Sage Foundation.

Stinchcombe A.L. [1959], Bureaucratic and Craft Administration of Production: a Comparative Study, in “Administrative Science Quarterly”, vol. 4, n°2 (September), pp. 168–187.

Taylor, F.W. [1911], The principles of scientific management, New York, London, Harper & brothers.

Thompson, J.D. [1967], Organizations in Action, New York, Mc Graw-Hill.

Uzzi, B. [1996], The sources and Consequences of Embeddedness for the Economic Performance of Organizations: the Network Effect, American Sociological Review, vol. 61, n°4, pp. 674-698.

Weber, M., Wirtschaft und Gesellschaft, Tubingen Mohr, 1956.

Metodi didattici

Il corso avrà carattere seminariale e gli studenti saranno pertanto fortemente incoraggiati a far avanzare di pari passo lezioni e letture, per poter realizzare un processo di apprendimento collettivo.

Modalità di verifica e valutazione dell'apprendimento

A fine corso verrà effettuata una prova scritta con domande aperte, integrabile con una interrogazione orale. In alternativa o a complemento, per le persone interessate  a una tesi di laurea, si può concordare con la docente la realizzazione di una tesina, una piccola ricerca empirica o una riflessione teorica per approfondire un argomento che abbia interessato lo studente in maniera particolare. Le tesine sono accettate solo nell'appello immediatamente successivo al termine delle lezioni.

Strumenti a supporto della didattica

Durante le esercitazioni potrà essere necessario utilizzare videocamera e altri strumenti utili al controllo della somministrazione di interviste. Nella analisi di casi aziendali reali gli studenti lavoreranno a partire dalla trascrizione di interviste  attenute nell'ambito di inchieste sociologiche e di materiale video.

Orario di ricevimento

Consulta il sito web di Nicoletta Giusti