72828 - Littoral and Continental Shelf Dynamics

Learning outcomes

The aim of the course is to introduce students to the main natural and anthropogenic processes interacting at different temporal and spatial scales on coastal evolution. Moreover, the students should be able to plan monitoring activities for the study of the physical coastal system; to approach the major threat, such as coastal erosion and flooding or extreme events; to identify possible coastal defence policies. The present geological and depositional setting of continental shelves is also taken into account in the framework of their late-Quaternary evolution and considering their potential as resources (sand mining for replenishment activities).

Course contents

Part 1:

Introduction: coastal zone: definition and limits, classification approaches. Spatial and temporal scales in littoral dynamics. Main hydrodynamic processes acting in the coastal zone: wind, waves and currents, tides and storm surges.
Sea-level variations: causes of sea-level variations at long, medium and short term. Sea level measurement. Estimates of global sea-level rise and predicted scenarios.

Coastal geomorphology: cliffed coasts and factors affecting their evolution. Evidences of vertical movements and relative sea-level changes along coastal tracts. Wave- and tide-dominated littoral systems. Deltas and estuaries.

Littoral morphodynamics: the beach, hydrodynamic and morphological profile, the control of the wave climate or sea-level changes. Littoral circulation models and sediment transport. Morphodynamic classification: characteristics of dissipative and reflective beaches. Elements of sedimentary balance.

Main traditional and up-to-date techniques for coastal study and monitoring. Coastal erosion: natural and anthropogenic causes and possible defense policies. Human efforts to mitigate wave action and to protect the coasts. Approaches to coastal hazard assessment and management. Coastal vulnerability to extreme events: storm surges, hurricanes, tsunamis, submarine landslides.

Continental shelves: main controlling factors on the geological and depositional structure of continentale shelves, including their late-Quaternary evolution. Sedimentation on the shelf and potential for resources (submarine relict deposits for nourishment purposes).

Part 2 (only for course at 8 CFU):

The contents of this part will deal with the potential of continental shelves as sources of sandy sediment for beach nourishing, in a strategy of coastal defence. Case-histories from the Emilia Romagna region will be presented.

Readings/Bibliography

Pranzini E., 2004. La forma delle coste. Zanichelli
A.D. Short, 2001. Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics. John Wiley &Sons.
Davis R.A. & Fitzgerald D.M., 2004. Beaches and Coasts. Blackwell science.
Davidson-Arnott R., 2010. Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology. Cambridge University Press.

Teaching methods

Lectures (corresponding to 5+1 credits) and laboratory exercises/field excursion (1+1 credits).

Assessment methods

Final oral examination, including the valuation of a written report on data regarding the Emilia-Romagna coasts.

Teaching tools

Slides are used for lectures. A copy of these and further documentation will be available to students at the Unibo repository web site. In laboratory, exercises on specific subjects will be carried out, such as eye- and microscopy observations of beach sediments, cartography, etc.

Office hours

See the website of Claudia Romagnoli