- Docente: Stefano Marino
- Credits: 6
- SSD: M-FIL/04
- Language: English
- Teaching Mode: In-person learning (entirely or partially)
- Campus: Rimini
- Corso: Second cycle degree programme (LM) in Fashion Studies (cod. 6780)
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from Mar 31, 2026 to May 06, 2026
Learning outcomes
At the end of the Course the student: will know the essential aspects of the debates on pop culture will be able to contextualise mass culture and the poetics of pop will be able to reflect critically on communications mediated by symbolic forms of an aesthetic matrix; will be able to understand the aesthetic communicative practices linked to taste and beauty, and their role in the constitution of the image of individuals and groups, identities and lifestyles.
Course contents
Fashion and Rock Music between Avant-garde Art and Popular Culture.
The status and significance of popular culture has been often debated and discussed in the modern and contemporary age. Especially in the 20th and 21st century several aestheticians, art theorists and cultural critics have offered some influential categorizations of cultural and artistic phenomena in terms of “high culture” vs. “low culture”, “serious music” vs. “popular music”, “avant-garde” vs. “kitsch”, etc. Other theorists, however, have raised objections against such dualistic classification schemes, suggesting that there does not exist, in fact, a rigid and unbridgeable division between so-called “high fine arts” and “popular arts”, and arguing that especially the history of the arts in the 20th century has offered many important examples of cultural products belonging to the domain of popular culture which, at the same time, had been significantly influenced by some developments of avant-garde art.
This Lecture Course will investigate the multidimensional imaginary of popular culture as a “prism” for a critical understanding of the Zeitgeist of the present age. With regard to this, the diverse fields of rock music and fashion appear particularly relevant and rich of important examples, also to understand the particular relation that artists must nowadays establish with the market and the domain of the culture industry (which includes the branches of the music industry, the film industry, the fashion industry, etc.). In this context, a specific attention will be paid in this Lecture Course to fashion and rock music (understood as two among the most influential aesthetic practices of our time), and more specifically: (1) to the relation of modern fashion with both avant-garde art and popular culture; (2) to the way in which stylistic components derived from the avant-garde have been fruitfully integrated and developed in the context of popular music, with a particular focus on two of the most important rock bands of the last decades: King Crimson and Radiohead.
In the 1970s the guitarist and composer Robert Fripp (the founder of the band King Crimson) coined what we can consider the fundamental maxim (or, more emphatically, the “golden rule”) for artists who nowadays aim to establish an active, conscious and reflective relation with the culture industry, and thus aim to have a real control over their artistic creativity: “working in the marketplace but not governed by the values of the marketplace”, thus acting as “small, mobile, independent, intelligent units”, rather than being passively influenced and conditioned by the mechanisms of the culture industry and the logic of the market. Some of the manifold implications and consequences of this rigorous artistic attitude will be explored in this Lecture Course, with examples derived from the fields of both rock music and fashion.
The bibliography may be subject to changes until the beginning of the Lecture Course.
Readings/Bibliography
Readings/Bibliography.
(A) Mandatory Readings for the Exam:
(1) Clement Greenberg, “Avant-Garde and Kitsch”, in Art and culture: Critical essays, Boston: Beacon Press, 1961. (Also available in B. Rosenberg and D. Manning White (ed.), Mass Culture: The Popular Arts in America, Glencoe: The Free Press, 1963, pp. 98-110).
(2) Richard Shusterman, Pragmatist Aesthetics: Living Beauty, Rethinking Art, Lanham-Boulder-New York-Oxford: Rowman & Littlefield Publishers, 2000 (2nd edition), only Chapter 7 (“Form and Funk: The Aesthetic Challenge of Popular Art”).
(3) Elizabeth Wilson, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity, London-New York: Tauris & Co., 2003 (2nd edition), only Chapter 8 (“Fashion and Popular Culture”).
(4) Lars Svendsen, Fashion: A Philosophy, London: Reaktion Books, 2006, only Chapter 6 (“Fashion and Art”).
(5a) Stefano Marino and Eleonora Guzzi, The Philosophy of Radiohead: Music, Technology, Soul, Milano-Udine: Mimesis International, 2024
OR
(5b) Pete Tomsett, Fifty Shades of Crimson: Robert Fripp and King Crimson, London-New York: Bloomsbury, 2021, only Chapters 2, 4 and 7.
The bibliography may be subject to changes until the beginning of the Lecture Course.
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(B) Other suggested readings (for potential further developments, individual researches, etc.):
On Progressive Rock and King Crimson:
Eric Tamm, Robert Fripp: From King Crimson to Guitar Craft, London: Faber & Faber, 1990.
Edward Macan, Rocking the classics: English Progressive Rock and the Counterculture. Oxford- New York: Oxford University Press, 1997.
Bill Martin, Listening to the Future: The Time of Progressive Rock, 1968-1978, Open Court, 1997.
Kevin Holm-Hudson (ed.), Progressive rock reconsidered, London-New York: Routledge, 2002.
Bill Bruford, The Autobiography. Yes, King Crimson, Earthworks and More, London: Foruli Publications, 2009.
Paul Hegarty and Martin Halliwell, Beyond and before: Progressive rock since the 1960s, London-New York: Continuum, 2011.
Andrew Keeling, Musical Guide to “Lizard” by King Crimson, London: Spaceward Publications, 2018.
Bill Bruford, Uncharted: Creativity and the Expert Drummer, Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press, 2018.
On Radiohead:
J. Doheny, Radiohead. Karma Police: The Stories behind Every Song, Carlton, London, 2002.
T. Footman, Radiohead. Welcome to the Machine: OK Computer and the Death of the Classic Album, Chrome Dreams, New Malden, 2007.
B.W. Forbes and G.A. Reisch (eds.), Radiohead and Philosophy: Fitter, Happier, More Deductive, Open Court, Chicago, 2009.
M. Letts Tatom, Radiohead and the Resistant Concept Album: How to Disappear Completely, Indiana University Press, Bloomington (IL), 2010.
S. Hyden, This Isn’t Happening: Radiohead’s Kid A and the Beginning of the 21st Century, Hachette Books, New York, 2021.
On Fashion:
Yuniya Kawamura, Fashion-ology. An Introduction to Fashion Studies, New York: Berg, 2005.
Tim Edwards, Fashion in Focus: Concepts, Practices and Politics, London: Routledge, 2011.
Giovanni Matteucci and Stefano Marino (eds.), Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion, London-New York: Bloomsbury, 2017.
Gwenda-lin Grewal, Fashion | Sense: On Philosophy and Fashion, London-New York: Bloomsbury, 2022.
[The program (texts, topics, assessment method, etc.) is identical for both attending and non-attending students].
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Students with SLD or temporary or permanent disabilities.
It is suggested that they get in touch as soon as possible with the relevant University office (https://site.unibo.it/studenti-con-disabilita-e-dsa/en) and with the lecturer in order to seek together the most effective strategies for following the lessons and/or preparing for the examination.
Teaching methods
Traditional lectures and class discussions with students.
Assessment methods
The assessment method is a written test, including questions on the fundamental topics included in all the texts in the Program.
The written test will include 12 multiple-choice questions and 1 open/discoursive question.
The questions will be focused on all the texts in the Program.
The program (texts, topics, assessment method, etc.) is identical for both attending and non-attending students.
The teacher can potentially ask the students to integrate and complete the exam (after the written text) with an oral conversation on the Program.
Students with specific, justified and certified needs (limited for example to: Situations related to international mobility / Situations related to disability / Situations related to certified learning disabilities) may contact the teacher by e-mail to discuss the possibility of taking the exam in an alternative format (for instance, oral interview in presence in Rimini or written paper to be sent by e-mail).
The use of AI tools in any form is not permitted during the examination (including chatbots, text generators, advanced translators, content synthesizers, and tools integrated into devices). With regard to learning assessment, the use of AI during the examination is prohibited and any use is considered a violation of academic integrity.
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The examination will ensure the achievement of the following objectives:
- Knowledge of the main conceptual contents of the texts in the Program.
- General orientation concerning the basic characteristics of the aesthetics of pop culture.
- Comprehension of the affinities and differences between diverse approaches to the study of pop culture.
- Understanding of meaning of the fundamental concepts learned in relation to the concrete phenomena taken into account.
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Students with SLD or temporary or permanent disabilities.
It is necessary to contact the relevant University office (https://site.unibo.it/studenti-con-disabilita-e-dsa/en) with ample time in advance: the office will propose some adjustments, which must in any case be submitted 15 days in advance to the lecturer, who will assess the appropriateness of these in relation to the teaching objectives.
Teaching tools
The lessons will be supported by the multimedia material available in the classroom.
Office hours
See the website of Stefano Marino
SDGs
This teaching activity contributes to the achievement of the Sustainable Development Goals of the UN 2030 Agenda.