10668 - Sedimentology and Coastal Regime

Learning outcomes

Introduction to the study of littoral domain from the main hydrodinamic, geomorphologic and sedimentologic point of view. Main techniques for coastal study and monitoring. Approach to the integrate managing of the coasts.

Course contents

Introduction

Coastal zone: definition and limits, classification approaches. Spatial and temporal scales in littoral dynamics and coastal morphogenesis. Main hydrodynamic processes acting in the coastal zone: wind, waves and currents, tides and storm surges.

  Sea-level variations

Sea-level variations at long, medium and short term. Sea level measurement: tide gauges and satellite altimetry. Estimates of global sea-level rise and predicted scenarios. Relative sea-level variations: processes involved in the occurrence of vertical movements along coastal tracts and related geological evidences.

  Coastal geomorphology

Wave-, tide-dominated and mixed littoral systems. Deltas and estuaries. Cliffed coasts: f actors affecting their coastal evolution.

  Sedimentology of coastal systems

Sediments on a coast: composition and granulometric characters. Sediment transport and sorting processes in the coastal zone .

  Coastal morphodynamics

Morphological and hydrodynamic beach profiles. Wave shoaling and breaking. Beach profile modifications induced by wave climate or sea-level changes. Littoral circulation models and areal re-shaping of beaches. Morphodynamic classification of Wright e Short: characters of dissipative and reflective beaches. Coastal cells and sedimentary balance.

Coastal monitoring and management

Coastal study and monitoring: main traditional and updated techniques.  Coastal erosion: natural and anthropic causes and possible defense policies. Elements of integrated coastal management.

 

Readings/Bibliography

Pranzini E. , 2004. La forma delle coste. Zanichelli, Bologna.

P.D. Komar, 1998. Beach processes and sedimentation. Prentice Hall, New Jersey.

R.W.G. Carter, 1988. Coastal environments. Academic Press, Londra.

A.D. Short, 2001. Handbook of beach and shoreface morphodynamics. John Wiley &sons.

CIESM Science Series, 1997. Transformations and evolution of the Mediterranean coastline. (F. Briand, A. Maldonado eds.), Bulletin de l’Institut oceanographique, Monaco, n. special 18.

CIESM Workshop Series n.8, 2002. Erosion littorale en mediterranee: dynamique, diagnostic et remedies. (F. Briand, J.Mascle eds.), Bulletin de l’Institut oceanographique, Monaco.

European Commission, 2000. Sea level change and coastal processes. implications for europe. (D.Smith, S. Raper, S. Zerbini, A. Sanchez-Arcilla eds.), eur 19337.

Teaching methods

Lectures, laboratory exercises and possible final field trip.

Assessment methods

Oral examination.

Teaching tools

Slide projector for PC, coastal cartoghraphy.

Office hours

See the website of Claudia Romagnoli