87833 - Bioactive Compounds In Cosmetics

Learning outcomes

By the end of the course, the student should have a sufficient understanding of the molecular mechanisms of action of cosmetic bioactive compounds, and about the different kinds of bonds and steric factors involved in the interactions between the cosmetic bioactive compounds and the different biological targets. He should know the main chemical transformations, which can occur on these kinds of compounds by the metabolic reactions. He should be able to apply their knowledge to understand the chemical and physical properties, mechanisms of action, structure-activity relationships of different cosmetic bioactive compounds, which will be introduced and illustrated during the course.

Course contents

Principles of pharmacokinetics (PK): absorption, distribution, metabolism (Phase I and Phase II reactions), excretion of bioactive compounds, and related environmental issues.

Principles of pharmacodynamics (PD): interactions of bioactive compounds with different biological targets; description of the different chemical bonds involved, the structures of the various targets, and their activation. Molecular mechanisms of bioactive compounds.

Biological targets in the epidermis: intracellular and membrane receptors, and enzymes.

Influence of physicochemical properties on the PK and PD of bioactive compounds: molecular weight, logD, logP, etc.

Influence of steric factors on the PK and PD of bioactive compounds: optical (chirality), geometric, and conformational isomerism.

Categories of cosmeceuticals classified according to their main indication, related to the etiology of the target condition: skin aging, hyperpigmentation, acne and seborrhea, skin barrier impairment and xerosis, inflammation, rosacea, and sensitive skin.

Microalgae in cosmetics.

Peptides as cosmeceuticals.

Future perspectives in cosmeceuticals and sustainability.

Discussion of case studies related to the development of new bioactive compounds for cosmetic applications.

Readings/Bibliography

Leslie Baumann, Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients, Mc Graw Hill Education, 2015, ISBN: 978-0-07-179398-8

Zoe Diana Draelos, Cosmeceuticals, Elsevier, 2016, ISBN: 978-0-323-29869-8

M. Varinia Michalun, Joseph C. Dinardo, Milady Dictionary, Cengage Learning, 2015, ISBN: 978-1-285-06079-8

Teaching methods

Lectures and in class activities.

Assessment methods

At the end of the course, each student is required to give a short presentation, supported by presentation slides, on a cosmetic product designed by the student, based on bioactive compounds discussed during the course and/or described in the scientific literature.

The final grade is based on the quality of the presentation and on the student's ability to answer questions asked by the instructor during the presentation concerning the topics covered in the course.

Online registration via AlmaEsami is mandatory.

Students with Specific Learning Disorders (SLD) and Temporary/Permanent Disabilities: it is recommended to contact the University Office in charge in advance (https://site.unibo.it/studenti-con-disabilita-e-dsa/en). The office will be responsible for proposing any necessary accommodations to the interested students. These accommodations must be submitted to the course Professor for approval at least 15 days in advance. The Professor will assess their suitability, also in light of the course's learning objectives.

Teaching tools

The teaching material (slides) presented during classes is available on the Virtuale platform.

Office hours

See the website of Elisa Uliassi