B2826 - Formulation and Legislation of Dermocosmetic Products

Learning outcomes

Upon completion of the course, students will: - possess knowledge and skills in formulating both traditional and innovative cosmetic products. - know the raw materials of cosmetic interest, their functionality, the formulation technologies of the most important cosmetic categories, the chemical and technological aspects related to their industrial production, as well as stability controls on finished products. - possess knowledge of functional cosmetics to properly recommend cosmetic products. - know cosmetic legislation, particularly regarding labeling and safety regulations.

Course contents

Legislation and safety regulations for cosmetics in the European Union. Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. Definition of cosmetics and their functions. Natural, biological and sustainable cosmetics.  Cosmetovigilance and Rapex.

Ingredients of cosmetic formulations. International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. Oily materials, surface active agents, humectants, thickening agents, antioxidants, sequestring agents, antimicrobial agents, color materials, fragrances.

Cosmetic formulations: classification and formulation techniques. Aqueous solutions, alcoholic and hydro-alcoholic solutions, siliconic-alcoholic solutions, oil solutions; surfactants’ preparations; aqueous, glyceric and alcoholic gels; hydro and hydro-glyceric pastes; emulsions, emulsions O/W, W/O, W/S; multiple systems, microemulsions. Solid and consistent lipid forms: lipogels, pastes, sticks and butters. Powder preparations. Controls of the finished products. Non conventional systems: patches, micro/nanoparticles, phytosomes, inclusion complexes.

Functional cosmetics. Skin care cosmetics and body care cosmetics: moisturizers and humectants, emollients, cleasing ingredients, antiaging, suncare cosmetics, deodorants and antiperspirants, vasoactives. Hair care cosmetics: anti-dandruff cosmetics, hair cleasing cosmetics, hair colorant and hair bleach. Make up products. Cosmetic products for children.

Advice of the appropriate cosmetic product.

Readings/Bibliography

Slides from lessons (http://campus.unibo.it/ ).

G. D'AGOSTINIS, E. MIGNINI, Manuale del cosmetologo, Ed. Tecniche Nuove, Milano, 2022.

U.BORELLINI, Manuale di cosmetologia, Ed. Edra, Milano, 2019.

G. PENAZZI. Come sono fatti i cosmetici. Guida pratica alla lettura dell'INCI. EDRA LSWR, Milano, 2022.

A. BOVERO, Dermocosmetologia, Ed. Tecniche Nuove, Milano, 2011.

F. BETTIOL, M. CECCHI. Manuale delle preparazioni cosmetiche e dermatologiche. II Edizione. Tecniche Nuove, Milano, 2018.

R.ARACRI, F. MANCINI, O.SALERNO. Il diritto nella cosmesi. Guida agli aspetti tecnico-normativi. Ed. Tecniche Nuove, Milano, 2023.

Slides presented in class are not a substitute for the reference texts

Teaching methods

Theorical lessons (3 CFU, 24 hours).

The attendance requirement is considered fulfilled by attending at 60% of lectures. Attendance is recorded using the student attendance application.

Assessment methods

Oral examination. To take the exam, registration is required through Almaesami, in compliance with the deadlines provided for.

The examination will be conducted in person, unless public health conditions, flooding emergencies, or the identification of at-risk zones—as defined by current regulations—and/or cases of student vulnerability (as assessed by the University’s DSA service) require otherwise. These cases will be evaluated individually and, if they meet the necessary criteria, the exam may be held remotely via the Microsoft Teams platform.

Students with Specific Learning Disorders (SLD) or temporary/permanent disabilities: It is strongly recommended to contact the relevant University Office in advance (https://site.unibo.it/studenti-con-disabilita-e-dsa/en). The office will be responsible for proposing any necessary accommodations to the interested students, which must be submitted for the instructor's approval at least 15 days in advance. The instructor will evaluate their suitability in relation to the course's learning objectives.

The use of AI is forbidden. Any use of it is a violation of academic integrity.

Teaching tools

The theoretical lessons will be held by using slides, videoprojector and PC.

Office hours

See the website of Angela Abruzzo