B9113 - ETHICS AND FASHION CULTURES

Learning outcomes

By the end of the course, students will have acquired the intellectual tools necessary to analyse the culture of fashion from the perspective of its ethical, moral, religious and intercultural issues. A further goal will be the ethical analysis of notions such as cultural identity, the self, and the understanding of the self as functions of fashion. Students will learn about topics such as cultural appropriation, Orientalism, and the histories of fashion. Students will also be introduced to key ethical notions applied to fashion, such as ecosystem and human environment protection, criticism of consumerism, and the cult of aesthetics.

Course contents

The course Ethics and Fashion Cultures addresses various dimensions of both fashion theory and ethical concerns. Fashion, in fact, raises serious ethical questions, while ethics itself increasingly appears as a dimension to be integrated into the creation and production of clothing.

Historically, the central issue at the intersection of fashion and morality was modesty — a theme that, although approached differently today, remains highly relevant in certain cultural contexts, such as in predominantly Muslim societies. However, since the early twentieth century, fashion has been confronted with new ethical challenges.

Starting from the questions surrounding modesty and modest fashion, the course will explore topics such as cultural appropriation in fashion, Orientalism as both a source of inspiration and a form of appropriation, labor exploitation in the fashion industry, and — perhaps the most widely recognized — environmental pollution caused by this sector.

What does so-called ethical fashion entail, and how can it engage with major market trends and broader consumer interests? Conversely, might greenwashing serve merely as a strategy to evade genuine environmental responsibility? These questions open onto the issue of fashion communication, which itself raises distinct ethical concerns that will also be examined.

Other topics will address the role of cultures, religions, and even a theological perspective that allows for a deeper understanding of the cultural diversity underpinning clothing and fashion.

Ultimately, the course aims to offer students a serious and comprehensive overview of the ethical issues intertwined with fashion practices and discourse.

Readings/Bibliography

Per prepare l’esame, studiare i seguenti testi :

To prepare for the exam, students are required to study the following texts:

Ambrosio A. F., “Fashion, Clothing, and Modesty in Republican Turkey (1925–34)” (in press) in A. Utriza Yakin, A. duderija & A. Van Raemdonck (dirs.), Shame, Modesty, and Honor in Islam, London, Bloomsbury Academic, 2024, pp.127-140.

Hoskins, T.E., Stitched up: The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion, Pluto Press, London 2014.

Thomas, S., Fashion Ethics, Routledge, London 2017.

To further explore certain topics covered in class:

De Castro, O., Loved clothes last: How the Joy of Rewearing and Repairing Your Clothes Can Be a Revolutionary Act, London: Penguin Life, 2021.

Edelkoort, L., Anti_Fashion Manifesto. A Manifesto for the next decade, Paris: Trend Union, 2015.

Kollnitz A., Wallenberg L. (eds.), Fashion Aesthetics and Ethics. Past and Present, London Bloomsbury: Visual Arts, 2023.

Mukendi, A., Davies, I., Glozer, S., McDonagh, P., Sustainable fashion: current and future research directions, in “European Journal of Marketing”, 54, 2020, pp. 2873-2909.

Niinimäki, K., Ethical Foundations in Sustainable Fashion, in “Textiles and Clothing Sustainability”, 1, 2015, p. 1-11.

Polhemus, T., Fashion & Anti-Fashion: Exploring Adornment and Dress from an Anthropological Perspective, Self-Publishing, Lulu.com, 2011.

Teaching methods

Lectures, individual presentations by students based on the topics covered and their personal interests, and — where possible, depending on the number of participants — group work.

Assessment methods

If the student attends classes regularly — something strongly encouraged — the assessment will consist of a presentation and an oral exam on the final day of the course. In case of non-attendance or inability to be present for the oral exam, a written assignment of 7,000 words will be required.

Teaching tools

Videos and PowerPoint presentations.

Office hours

See the website of Fabio Carlo Antonio Ambrosio