96344 - Cosmetic Ingredients Analysis, Quality Assurance.

Academic Year 2023/2024

  • Docente: Jessica Fiori
  • Credits: 12
  • SSD: CHIM/01
  • Language: English
  • Moduli: Jessica Fiori (Modulo 1) Daniele Fabbri (Modulo 2) Mara Mirasoli (Modulo 3)
  • Teaching Mode: Traditional lectures (Modulo 1) Traditional lectures (Modulo 2) Traditional lectures (Modulo 3)
  • Campus: Rimini
  • Corso: Second cycle degree programme (LM) in Advanced Cosmetic Sciences (cod. 9225)

Learning outcomes

After completing the course, the student: - knows and can apply the sample preparation techniques and instrumental analytical techniques suitable for analyzing the raw materials for cosmetic use, to carry out a chemical-physical characterization, determine the concentration of specific active ingredients, and identify and quantify impurities, allergens and inorganic and organic contaminants; - knows and can apply analytical separation methods for the size/shape/spectroscopic analysis and characterization of nanomaterials employed in the cosmetic industry; - knows the environmental impact of the main components of cosmetic products as well as analytical and bioanalytical methods for the determination of emerging environmental pollutants (microplastics, nanomaterials, cosmetic residues); - knows the methods of chemical analysis for the determination of substances and materials of cosmetic products to evaluate the implications related to their release into the environment; - has the knowledge and the fundamentals, both theoretical and practical, related to system quality, Quality Control, Certification and Accreditation according to the national and international standards (ISO 9001:2015, ISO/IEC 17025:2005), the requirements of Good Laboratory Practice (GLP Good Laboratory Practice GLP) and Good Manufacturing Practices, the Good Sustainability Practice (GSP) for the cosmetic industry.

Course contents

The course includes one session of laboratory practical exercises. Attendance to laboratory exercises is compulsory. To attend the laboratory, it is requested that students have completed the compulsory course on safety at work and they have sent by e-mail to jessica.fiori@unibo.it a copy of the certificate of passing the final exam. Each student is required to procure and wear the chemical lab coat.

The course is divided in 3 modules.

Cosmetic ingredients analysis.

Introduction: overview of active ingredients, chemical characteristic and function.

Theoretical, practical aspects and application of analytical approaches useful for the quality control of the ingredients (raw materials) used in the cosmetic formulations and for evaluating the presence of impurities or allergens.

Separation techniques: liquid chromatography, gas chromatography, capillary electrophoresis, with different detection system.

Spectroscopic techniques: UV-Vis spectroscopy (Derivative UV, derivatization), atomic absorption and emission spectroscopy, mass spectrometry, Near Infrared spectroscopy (NIR), Raman spectroscopy.

Practical experience: bibliographic research on methods suitable for the analysis of a specific ingredients, presentation of this research.

The module includes laboratory exercises:

- Identification of oxidation dyes in raw materials for hair dyes by TLC separation on silica gel;

- Determination of the peroxide index in oils and fats by volumetric titration;

- Quality control of sweet fennel essence through GC-FID;

- Assay on lemon essence by UV-Vis spectrophotometry;

- Determination of the identity of the parabens and their degree of purity by HPLC-UV.

Cosmetic ingredients analysis in the environment

Key concepts: environment, Earth system, planetary boundaries, sustainability, Agenda 2030, pollution. Cosmetic ingredients of environmental importance: sources, waste water treatment plants. Chemical analysis: composition of environmental matrices, matrix effects, sample treatment, solid/liquid extraction, liquid/liquid extraction, salting out, solid phase extraction, single-drop microextraction, solid-phase microextraction, dispersiveSPE, quenchers, mass spectrometry, interpretation of GC-MS data from the analysis of cosmetic ingredients in the environment, case studies.

Quality management in the cosmetic industry

Introduction, the concept of quality and its evolution to the total quality management approach. The pillars of total quality management.

The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and its activity of standards publication. Accreditation and certification processes.

EN ISO 9001:2015: the main concepts (customer focus, process approach, Plan-do-check-act Deming's cycle, Risk-driven approach); structure of the standard and overview of the 10 clauses. Connections between EN ISO 9001:2015 and EN ISO 22716:2007 and between EN ISO 9001:2015 and (EU) No 655/2013 (and related Technical document) on cosmetic claims. Working with a Standard Operating Procedure (SOP).

Quality in the analytical chemistry laboratory. ISO/IEC 17025:2017 standard: structure of the standard and main principles.

EN ISO 14001:2015: structure of the standard and overview of the 10 clauses.

Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) 1907/2006 EU Regulation and Classification, Labeling and Packaging (CLP) 1272/2008 EU Regulation. Principles and applicability to cosmetic industries.

Presentations by companies and institutions. COSMETICA ITALIA: European Regulation 1223/2009 on cosmetic products.


- Editors: Amparo Salvador, Alberto Chisvert. Analysis of Cosmetic Products, 1st Edition (2007) or 2nd Edition (2017) Elsevier Science

- ISO standards, downloadable from the https://login.ihserc.com/login/erc website through the University convention and from a location with official credentials (recognition is made for IP number).

- Hage and Carr: "Analytical Chemistry and Quantitative Analysis" 1st edition by Pearson College Div (2010)

- Harris: "Quantitative Chemical Analysis" 8th edition by W. H. Freeman and Company (2010)

- Holler, Skoog, Crouch: "Principle of Instrumental Analysis" 7th edition by Brooks/Cole Pub Co (2017).

Teaching methods

Lectures in which the topics of the course are presented and discussed, with practical examples, vision of videos and explanatory numerical exercises.

In-depth seminars.

Laboratory activities with practical exercises in small groups, preparation of a report, with discussion on the exam.

As concerns the teaching methods of this course unit, all students must attend Module 1, 2 [https://www.unibo.it/en/services-and-opportunities/health-and-assistance/health-and-safety/online-course-on-health-and-safety-in-study-and-internship-areas] online, while Module 3 on health and safety is to be attended in class or on Microsoft Teams according to the modality chosen by the teacher. Information about Module 3 attendance schedule is available on the website of your degree programme.

Assessment methods

The assessment of learning takes place through the final exam, which ascertains the acquisition of the expected knowledge and skills through an oral interview on the entire program. As the course is divided in modules, the exam can be split at separated times of verification, as preliminary tests. The evaluations obtained in the individual modules are integrated to obtain the final exam grade by means of a final weighted average and have an annual validity deadline.

To take the exam, registration is required through Almaesami, in compliance with the deadlines provided for. You are encouraged to unsubscribe if not interested in taking the exam. The cancellation must be done before closing the list.

The evaluation criteria is based on the demonstration by the student of knowing how to use and apply the knowledge, information and cultural tools provided by the course, with discussion of the laboratory report. The threshold of sufficiency of learning is represented in particular by the demonstration of critical understanding and the ability to discuss the topics of the course.

The teachers are available for further clarification and to check the pre-exam preparation level by appointment.

Teaching tools

Videoprojector, PC, Internet and You Tube connections. Microsoft Teams platform for students in teleconference.

Office hours

See the website of Jessica Fiori

See the website of Daniele Fabbri

See the website of Mara Mirasoli


Good health and well-being Clean water and sanitation Oceans

This teaching activity contributes to the achievement of the Sustainable Development Goals of the UN 2030 Agenda.