B2846 - Formulation and Regulation of Cosmetic and Dietary Supplements

Learning outcomes

The course will improve the knowledge of healthcare products by providing an overview of technological and regulation aspects of cosmetic products and food supplements. Specifically, at the end of the course, which also includes single-place laboratory practice, the student:

- knows the main aspects of formulation development and preparation methods of cosmetic products and food supplements, with particular reference to their chemical, technological and functional characteristics;

- can critically evaluate and assess the quality of cosmetic products and food supplements;

- learns the national and European regulations about the manufacturing and sale of cosmetic products and food supplements.

Course contents

COSMETIC PRODUCTS (3 CFU, 24 hours)

Definition of cosmetic and its main functions. Cosmeceutical. Phytocosmetic. Natural, organic and sustainable cosmetic. Market of cosmetic products related to skin care, hair care and make-up.

Regulatory sources: Regulation 1223/2009 and annexes; production, labelling, advertising, marketing; European inventory of cosmetic ingredients and INCI nomenclature.

General principles of Dermatology applied to cosmetology: insights into the structure of the skin and skin appendages, skin types, instrumental methods for evaluating the effectiveness of cosmetics.

Cosmetic raw materials: Classification of ingredients - lipids, surfactants, rheological modifiers, humectants, preservatives, dyes, perfumes. Specific functional ingredients: moisturisers/emollients, keratolytics, sebum normalizing agents, sunscreens and self-tanners, deodorants, antiperspirants, anti-cellulite, anti-redness and anti-aging.

Functional cosmetics: Cleaning products. Products for various skin types (dry, combination and oily skin). Moisturizing and nourishing. Lightening and smoothing. Sun care products, sun protection factor and after-sun. Anti-aging products. Body products: cosmetic treatment of cellulite and stretch marks. Hair care products. Cosmetic products for children. Oncological cosmetics.

Decorative cosmetics: hints of make-up and nail products.

FOOD SUPPLEMENTS (2 CFU, 16 hours)

Definition and classification of food supplements: Directive 2002/46/EC and subsequent EU regulations. Ministerial guidelines (LG) on food supplements. Role of EFSA.

Authorized ingredients in food supplements. Use of vitamins and minerals, vegetable substances and preparations (botanicals), probiotics and prebiotics, other nutrients and other substances with a nutritional or physiological effect and adjuvants for low-calorie diets.

Quality and safety. Composition and presentation on the label. Marketing/production, requirements.

Examples of formulationsand manufacturing technologies and evaluation of their effect on the ingredients bioavailability.

PRACTICE (1 CFU, 15 hours)

Formulation, preparation and labelling of cosmetic products (detergents and make-up removers; gels; hand and face creams; masks; conditioning and sun protection products; anhydrous lipid fusions) and food supplements (effervescent granules; throat sprays; chewable tablets). Exercises on reading the labels: tools to understand and critically evaluate the ingredient list.

Readings/Bibliography

1) Manuale del cosmetologo, Ed. Tecniche Nuove, Milano, 2022.

2) Manuale di cosmetologia, Ed. Edra, Milano, 2019.

3) Come sono fatti i cosmetici. Guida pratica alla lettura dell'INCI. EDRA LSWR, 2015.

4) Integratori alimentari per la salute, Tecniche Nuove, 2022.

5) Integratori Alimentari nell’Unione Europea, Tecniche Nuove, 2016.

Teaching methods

Lectures and laboratory.

A workshop on lipid excipients for use in dermatological preparations is organized by a manufacturing company.

Some topics related to food supplements will be presented by industry experts.

Assessment methods

Oral exam in italian language

Teaching tools

The material presented in class will be available to the student in electronic format through the web site: https://virtuale.unibo.it/

Office hours

See the website of Beatrice Albertini

See the website of