87828 - Chemistry of Cosmetics and Toiletries

Learning outcomes

At the end of the course the student has systematic knowledge of the classes of ingredients used in cosmetic formulations, knows their function and their chemical properties and possesses the rational elements necessary to identify which ingredients are suitable to the different types of formulation. The student achieves the critical ability necessary to predict the interactions among ingredients in a formulation and to rationalize the properties and stability of the formulation itself.

Course contents

Front teaching (classroom lectures: 40 hours)

Definition and functions of a cosmetic product. The concept of “cosmeceutical” according to Kligman.

Ingredients for cosmetic formulations: an overview. The basis of INCI nomenclature of ingredients.

- Lipids: hydrocarbons and terpenic hydrocarbons; triglycerides and non glyceric esters (oils and waxes), ethers, silicones

- Surfactants and cleansers: primary surfactants, secondary surfactants, rheology factors in surfactant-based preparations, pearling and matting factors, functional ingredients in cleansing formulations.

- Emulsifiers and emulsions chemistry: hydrophilic anionic emulsifiers, non-ionic hydrophilic emulsifiers, non-ionic lipophilic emulsifiers.

- Rheology modifiers in cosmetic formulations: hydro- and lipo- rheology modifiers, structures, functions and uses

- Preservatives in cosmetic formulations: antioxidants, anti-microbial, self-preserving formulations, the concept of “preserving non-preservatives” in modern formulations.

- Functional ingredients: keratolytic and exfolliative agents, moisturizers, refatting agents, skin purifying agents, anti-aging ingredients and strategies, skin-whitening agents, cellulite treatment adjuvants, skin protective and soothing agents, polysaccharides and peptides, conditioning agents, other active ingredients.

- Perfumes and fragrances

- How to formulate and prepare cosmetic products. A systematic overview of formulation principles and technology: aqueous solutions, surfactant-based preparations, gels (hydro-gels and lipo-gels), emulsions (oil in water and water in oil), pastes, oil solutions, lipid-based pastes and sticks.

Laboratory practice (15 hours)

-Preparation of soap from vegetable oils

-Preparation of water-based tonic for face care

-Preparation of a soothing skin cleanser in the form of fluid O/W emulsion

-Scale-up preparation (5 kg) of a moisturizing cream in the form of a O/W emulsion in a pilot vacuum emulsifier.

-Preparation of a lipstick

-Preparation of a hair-styling gel.

Readings/Bibliography

- D.F Williams; W.H Schmitt. "Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industries." Edition 2013, Springer Nature) ISBN-10: 9401050074 ISBN-13: 978-9401050074

- Gabriella Baki (Author),‎ Kenneth S. Alexander (Author). “Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology 1st Edition.” Wiley; 1 edition (April 13, 2015). ISBN-10: 1118763785; ISBN-13: 978-1118763780

- Leslie S. Baumann (Author). “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients 1st Edition”. Publisher: McGraw-Hill Education / Medical; 1 edition (November 12, 2014). ISBN-10: 0071793984 ISBN-13: 978-0071793988

Further reading

- Ralph Gordon Harry (Author),‎ Martin M. Rieger (Editor). “Harry's Cosmeticology 8th Enlarged Edition”.Chemical Publishing Company; Enlarged edition (April 1, 2000). ISBN-13: 978-0820603728, ISBN-10: 0820603724

- André O. Barel (Editor),‎ Marc Paye (Editor),‎ Howard I. Maibach (Editor) “Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, Fourth Edition.” CRC Press; 4 edition (April 9, 2014), ISBN-13: 978-1842145647; ISBN-10: 1842145649

Teaching methods

The course is based both on classroom lectures (40 hours) and on laboratory practice (15 hours).

Classroom teaching will address systematic learning of the ingredients used in cosmetic formulation based on their function, along with the principles of cosmetic formulation. The teacher will stimulate critical discussion and active participation of students. Lab work will be both individual and based on collaborative work by small groups of students, under the supervision of the teacher. In addition, students will be directed toward the use of free professional databases available on-line to seek for INCI nomenclature ant functions of the cosmetic ingredients, so to undertake individual study that will complement the teaching received during classroom and laboratory work.

Assessment methods

Learning will be assessed by a final oral examination on the course content. The final mark will also take into account the attendance and active participation of students in laboratory work. Learning from laboratory experience will be assessed through a written final report that each student will be asked to prepare at the end of the course.

Teaching tools

Copy of the slides used during the lectures will be provided via AMS campus on-line. The students will be illustrated professional free-access databases available on-line for individual complementary learning.

Office hours

See the website of Luca Valgimigli